Travel | Sunday, March 7th, 2010
The Old Quarter, Ha Noi
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The Old Quarter in Hanoi must be what it feels like to live inside a hive. Along these narrow streets lined with hotels, houses, shops and restaurants runs the energetic stream of motorcycles and people – tourists, merchants and residents – in a pace that is constant and vibrant.
Five in the morning and already it is on the move. Store shutters are opening up to reveal elders pushing out their bicycles past people that are gathering in the streets. They sit on little stools and eat Pho in bowls while the steam hides their cheeks and conical hats cover their eyes.
By mid-morning the district is bustling and vendors show us their wares. All the shops are narrow because having a wide house is expensive so they stretch around streets, some just wide enough to fit in three people shoulder to shoulder. Most of them are specialty shops – this shop only sells coffee in jars upon jars and the aroma of the butter roasted beans fills every nook. There is a shop that sells only herbs across a store that has a collection of antique Russian watches. My favorite is the one with old propaganda posters. There are portraits of Uncle Ho here. It is still winter and the fog lingers throughout the day. An outdoor mall built in the mist, what a concept.
Be prepared to haggle because it is perfectly alright. “How much you want? This one, I`ll sell to you for ten dollars. You buy from me because it`s good for me, my first customer and I give you good price.” “How about six dollars?” “Ok, ok, I sell to you for seven, that is good price my friend.” the vendor says with a smile. Not everyone is friendly though like the vendor who sells wonderful little carved stamps. “No, no, no, no, no photos!” She says and then grunts out prices as we ask her how much she sells them for.
The food here is amazing. Some call it one of the best places to dine in the world. There is a strong French influence and there are restaurants that serve Indian, Chinese and European cuisine too. What we came here to try, of course, is Vietnamese food. The Pho, fried rice, shrimp, crispy battered squid, cold chicken, spring rolls, steamed clams in lemongrass. They sell them on the streets and in restaurants with names that I can`t really recall. Pho sot vang, Com chien toi, Muc tam bot chien gion, Ngheu hap xa, something like that. Most of the words are monosyllabic. Hanoi is actually Ha Noi and Vietnam, Viet Nam. We are ignorant foreigners.
To get around, we always walk. And we are always wary of the motorcycle traffic. They gush out of streets and crossings, even through sidewalks. A flood of two-wheeled organisms, honking unceasingly as if bickering and bordering on rage. They tell us to be steadfast, to always move forward and never step back. The motorcycles avoid you, and not the other way around. Even then, I still get brushed by a few motorists, but no big deal, it`s part of the charm.
We visit the temples and learn about their legends including the one about the ancient order of the guardians of Ha Noi, in Bach Ma Temple. They are still here and it is very interesting. They sip tea, smoke incense and stroke their white beards.
It’s the end of the day and we find the Municipal Water Puppet Theatre and buy tickets to the water puppet show. It is an art form made in this part of the world and it is charming and fascinating. Next time we will get tickets for front row, where the puppets are nearer and there is a chance to get splashed.
More of Vietnam:
Hoan Kiem Lake
posted by: Happy Garaje|
comment on this post|Tags: Vietnam, whereintheworld
hg everyday | Saturday, February 13th, 2010
Ha Long Bay
People around here say that Ha Long Bay is the place where the Dragon rests. And boy, is this place majestic and beautiful.
Along this vast body of emerald water are thousands of islands that seem to have been called up from under the earth to look out over the ocean. There was a mist when we were cruising around and it just added to the overall surreal feel of the experience.
When we got there they let us choose our own junkboat. We picked the most magnificent one. (Which was not very much more magnificent than the second most magnificent one :p)
The Mist is everywhere.
On deck!
That’s our captain walking around (so who’s steering the ship?)
Dragon Kiss
There are stops on bigger islands along the way, where there are hiking trails and caves.
Badass Caveman
They’ve put lights in the caves for those of you who don’t have night vision
Move along
Well… I think there was something really interesting sticking on the rock
Ship’s cook
Shrimp for lunch
You can also hang out inside the ship’s small rooms. Same view, less chilly air.
Vendors come around and approach the boat, selling fish and fruits.
This is on one of the floating fishing villages (interesting stuff)
Of course, it didn’t take long for Johanna to take over and commandeer the ship. Arrr!
Uhm, Joh? I think home is that way?
More of Vietnam:
Hoan Kiem Lake
posted by: Happy Garaje|
5 comments|Tags: Vietnam, whereintheworld
hg everyday | Saturday, February 13th, 2010
Hoan Kiem Lake
The Lake of the Restored Sword or Hoan Kiem lake is about five minutes walk away from where we are staying. Legend has it that, in the-15h century, Heaven sent Emperor Le Thai To a magical sword which he used to drive away the Chinese out of Vietnam. One day after the war a giant tortoise swam out of the water and took the sword from his hand and disappeared into the murky waters.
Since then a few tortoises have appeared in the lake, the last reported sighting was in 2000. In 1968, one tortoise died and weighed 250 kilos and was 2.1 meters long! The remains of the turtle is preserved in a museum.
People come around the lake in the morning and late in the afternoon to exercise, bike, meditate or just hang around. We attempted to jog around the lake this morning too, it was a bit cold, as the weather today was hanging around 12 degrees. (that’s really cold for a tropical man like me)
That’s Johanna, she’s liking the cold.
This is the bridge that’s in the middle of the lake.
Tonight is New Year’s eve and they’ve prepared some elaborate fireworks show and have decorated the lake with these huge balloons.
That’s the Pagoda at the center of the lake.
Across the street is the famous Old District, where there is a large market that sells everything!
Let’s play spot Johanna.
It’s cold even for this guy.
There are flowers everywhere.
Halong Bay
posted by: Happy Garaje|
3 comments|Tags: Vietnam, whereintheworld
Society of Illustrators Awards Johanna